Nestled down a narrow alley in Edinburgh’s Old Town, you’ll find The Devil’s Advocate. Nothing sinister here, but rather the latest incarnation from the team behind The Bon Vivant. And it seems Stuart McCluskey has done it again, creating an inviting character-filled space with thoughtful cocktails and tasty affordable grub.
The drinks menu is broken down into sections such as Prescriptions and Sippers and each cocktail is further categorised as long, short or up. If you’re a level four drinker, try the digestive Coleman Cocktail with a lick of Fernet paint. Too boozy for you? The selection of wines is ace and you’ll no doubt find a glass (or bottle) to your liking. The seasonal food menu is hearty and warming yet dishes are all delicately presented. Think juicy pigeon breast atop buttered spinach and parsnip puree then served with a pancetta crisp and jus.
The high ceilings and bare brick walls create a thick and wonderful atmosphere. This old Victorian pump house retains many of its original features and the lofted dining room will make you feel both snug and loved up … what with all the candles and romance. Plus it’s a perfect perch for people watching all those down below.
Best Bars tip: In the summer there’s an alfresco terrace and we reckon you’ll be clambering over one another to grab seats.
— Sasha Filimonov, @SashaSips